Submitted by Name: SpringerPop From: Los Angeles E-mail: Contact
Comments: Thanks for putting together the quick reference guide to torque specs. I replaced the front shocks today with some KYB MonoMax 565044s, and needed the specs for those bolts, and your chart came up when Googled. Was much quicker than digging through the maintenance manual! Again, THANKS!
Admin reply: . Hi SpringerPop,
Is this THE SpringerPop? Thanks for stopping byand taking the time to post!
Added: October 25, 2014
Submitted by Name: David from colorado From: colorado E-mail: Contact
Comments: The way isolated the leak is I pulled the vacuum lines that run to the hubs and used a vacuum guage to pull about 15 lbs of vacuum. On the drivers side I held pressure and the passenger side I could not get any pressure. Also I turned pump around to make sure the rest of the system was working by turning switch in cab to 4 wheel drive and I have vacuum on both sides. when you say axle seal are you talkig about the knuckle seal. Sorry not real familiar with how that whole system works or where vacuum can leak from. Also just to be proactive I replaced the vacuum lines that run to the hub. This really has not been a big deal I have been doing it manually for about 2 years but I bought new rims for the excursion and my old center caps popped off from the outside and my new ones mount from the back so I thought I should try and tackle this. Thanks for anything you can offer.
Admin reply: . David,
Sorry, yes, I mean the knuckle seal. It could be the outer hub (this is the auto/manual locking hub) o-ring, the yellow o-ring, or the knuckle seal. It could also be the outer hub itself leaking. It looks like you've done great job verifying where the leak is in the knuckle/hub.
Best of luck.
Added: October 24, 2014
Submitted by Name: David From: Colorado E-mail: Contact
Comments: Am currently having issues with the auto hubs on my 2000 excursion. have found passenger side hub not holding vacuum. Do you know if this is just an issue of replacing O rings or do I need a new hub or is there something else where I would lose vacuum in the hub. Also great site very impressive. Thanks.
Admin reply: . Hi David,
It could just be an o-ring. I am curious how you isolated it to the one side. Is just the one side not locking in? If that is the case, I would not suspect a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak would prevent both sides locking up. If you definitively isolated a leak to one side I would bet on an o-ring, but the axle seal is just as likely. Good luck.
Added: October 24, 2014
Submitted by Name: Chip Hess From: Buchanan, MI E-mail: Contact
Comments: Thanks so much for the document on the ball joints. I'm tackling this now on my 2000 Excursion and the details have saved me a ton of time. I didn't need to worry about taking notes because it was so detailed. I appreciate the time you put into this. Thanks again
Admin reply: . Hi Chip,
I am glad the project went well for you and I am glad my info helped!
Added: October 1, 2014
Submitted by Name: Mark Whelchel From: Alaska E-mail: Contact
Comments: Just wanted to say thanks for putting together this website. I have already replaced ball joints and fuel filter. I plan on tackling the radiator flush next. Also purchased the fumoto oil valve for next time I change the oil. Thanks!!
Admin reply: . Hi Mark,
Thanks for posting. I am glad you have found my website useful.
Added: September 19, 2014
Submitted by Name: Derek From: Belgrade, MT E-mail: Contact
Comments: Hello, I am glad I found your great site! I need to replace my ICP sensor on my 2002 7.3. I have received conflicting data regarding where this sensor is located at on my engine. can you clear this up for me? Is this something I can replace by myself in my garage? thanks.
Admin reply: Hello Derek,
ICP is an easy one. It's to the right of the fuel filter housing. Check your email.
Added: September 17, 2014
Submitted by Name: Scott From: Georgia E-mail: Contact
Comments: The ball joint write up was perfect. Thanks for taking the time to make it so detailed. I can't imagine having to do this job without this page pulled up on my laptop. For anyone ordering the Timken hubs through Amazon be warned they come with course thread wheel studs. My 2003 F250 has fine thread. It was $63 for 16 lug nuts at the local dealership.
Admin reply: Hi Scott,
Thanks for posting. I appreciate the nice comments. That's a good tip about the lug nuts for your 03.
Comments: I really appreciate the hard work and thought that goes into your site. Instructions this clear are such a rare find, and don't just happen....it takes a lot of effort on your part. Many thanks!
Admin reply: Tom - thanks for the nice comments. I did try hard to make the write-ups clear and concise. I am pleased you feel I succeeded. Thanks again.
Added: June 15, 2014
Submitted by Name: Mik30 From: Dallas,TX E-mail: Contact
Comments: Thanks for the great Ball joint write up. I just ordered all my parts to it with the links from your article. This is for my 2003 F250 4x4, 7.3L, auto, 3.73 gears running 19.5 rims/tires with 235,000 miles on the clock and still going strong! I am the original owner.
Admin reply: Mike - Thanks so much for using the links from my site to make your purchase your parts. It really is very much appreciated. Thanks for posting too!
Added: April 24, 2014
Submitted by Name: Robin From: California's central coast E-mail: Contact
Comments: Thanks for collecting and posting the torque specs. I had to replace a wheel bearing hub because the one I used last year was defective. Nice to have all those numbers in one place.
I noticed you thought the Bilstein 4600 shocks were a bit harsh. I went with the Bilstein 7100 series which allows you to set the gas pressure to suit your prefrence. Ive had them for 10 years and have had to top off the gas pressure once but still haven't needed to rebuild them yet. Lots of $$ but for the front end I think they are well worth price.
Admin reply: Robin - thanks for the tip and for posting!
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