Superdutypsd.com | FORD SUPER DUTY 7.3L POWERSTROKE DIESEL Guest Book





Comments:
I'm getting ready to add a Frantz Bypass filter that I purchased used off of the internet. I was just wondering which size of stainless steel covered hose did you use when you changed the lines from rubber? Also, where and why did you put shut off valves on the new lines? Down by the block or up by the filter? Just curious as to why as well.

Thanks for a great site and for sharing the info.


Added: October 18, 2011
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Comments:
Purchased items @ amazon thanks for help. Diff. Axle # for 2003. .mk-sp580205. Great site. Be sure get comm.

Admin reply: Thanks so much for using the Amazon links! It's deeply appreciated.


Added: October 14, 2011
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Comments:
I bough my 2000 F250 crew cab 4x4 a couple months ago knowing it needed ball joints.Thank you for all the tips and pictures.You made this really easy on me and my wallet.Thanks again.Robb

Added: October 2, 2011
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Comments:
thanks for the detail on ball joint replacement shop wanted 1350.00 to do job it cost me little under 500.00 and that also included all the tie rods ends i was nervous on doing this job but could not let myself have my baby being worked on by just any shop my 2001 7.3 f-350 dulley 4x4 extended cab i got about 4 years ago with only 64000 miles on it now ive got over 200000 and first major repair ive done thanks for the details and pictures keep up the good work anytime i do any repairs ill let you know how it goes thanks again Mike in Michigan :D

Admin reply: Michael, thanks for checking in. Glad the information helped. I, like you, work on my truck because I don't want anyone else working on it. I like to know it is done just how I want.


Added: September 30, 2011
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Comments:
Ball joint removal and installation was VERY detailed and helpful on my '02 F350. Thanks

Admin reply: Mike, glad you found the information useful. Thanks for posting.


Added: September 28, 2011
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Comments:
thanks very much for the great info on ball joint replacement,very detailed, great photos and accurate info. This is the second time i did this job. this time i used Raybestos joints instead of Moog because i just installed the Moog joints about three years ago. I seldom haul heavy and only put about 30K miles on.I welcome any comments on what others have used. :o

Admin reply: Rod, too bad about your first set of moogs. 30K is pretty surprising. Hope your new set works out better. My current moogs have about 55k on them and are doing well. Thanks for taking the time to post.


Added: September 7, 2011
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Comments:
Thanks for posting the great info on ball joint replacement. Easy to follow and good photos.
bobsonofbob

Admin reply: Bob, you're welcome. Glad you found my page ball joint write up useful. Thanks for taking the time to post.


Added: September 3, 2011
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Comments:
Hey I inquired about the knuckle seal a couple days ago. I couldnt reply to your post without a password? So I had to start a new post. Anyway, I also thought it was part of the seal, but the new seal does not have the metal flange on the back side. The new seals are factory Ford, so that's not the issue. The exploded view of the axle at the dealer calls it a bearing cap, but it looks to me like a dust cover for the seal or something. But as I said before, your pictures show you driving the old one off same as I did, and reinstalling the new one without the metal flange. Thanks for your input. If you don't mind, reply to my email.

Admin reply: Rob, I sent you an email. Do a new post and let me know if you do not receive it. I've been having a bit of trouble with my superdutypsd.com email.


Added: August 19, 2011
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Comments:
Hey there. I just read the article on replacing the ball joints in a super duty. I'll have to say, very very helpful and keep 'em comin! I have one question: when you remove the old knuckle seal, there's a metal flange that sets behind the seal that comes off with the seal. The problem is, I damaged mine beyond repair not knowing that I couldn't get new ones. The only way to get new ones are with a complete outer axle, which I don't need. However, I noticed in the picture of the new seal after installation, that the metal flange was not reinstalled. My question is, do I even need to put the flange back on, or is it OK without it. Any input is much appreciated. Thanks

Admin reply: Hi Rob,
I think the flange you are referring to is part of the seal. That is, if we are talking about the same thing??


Added: August 18, 2011
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Comments:
Hello again: Just finished the P/S Flush...After I added some brain cells, I figured this out... Took 20min...Very Easy and Clean... My 16yr old son helped me with brakes and steering wheel... Since I have been a life long Amsoil User.. as well as M1...I checked prices...Both are over $10qt...That's Crazy...Amsoil was even higher with shipping... I used 4qts to make sure total flush...Nice Ruby Red ATF was flowing at the end of the flush... 2qts Valvoline Mercon V & 2qts Valvoline MaxLife Merc/Dex... With a little extra room for 10oz of Lubegard ATF additive... P/S is like silk now--{Smooth and So Quiet}...

I just ordered the Magnefine 3/8 P/S filter will install up close to the hydroboost on the same line I had to remove... Will Change it out every 2yrs... and do the flush every 4yrs... From here on out... The main reason for doing this flush is I have plans on keeping my 7.3L for many many yrs too come... and If it helps prolong the life of my P/S unit... It was well worth the $25...

Thanks again!! Next flush I will pour in Synthetic ATF to help with those cold winter months...

Admin reply: Glad you got it done, Lonnie. I am like you, I intend to keep my 7.3 a good long time. I think if good maintenance is done, it is more than possible.


Added: August 3, 2011
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