Comments: thanks very much for the great info on ball joint replacement,very detailed, great photos and accurate info. This is the second time i did this job. this time i used Raybestos joints instead of Moog because i just installed the Moog joints about three years ago. I seldom haul heavy and only put about 30K miles on.I welcome any comments on what others have used.
Admin reply: Rod, too bad about your first set of moogs. 30K is pretty surprising. Hope your new set works out better. My current moogs have about 55k on them and are doing well. Thanks for taking the time to post.
Added: September 7, 2011
Submitted by Name: bob robertson From: Canada E-mail: Contact
Comments: Thanks for posting the great info on ball joint replacement. Easy to follow and good photos. bobsonofbob
Admin reply: Bob, you're welcome. Glad you found my page ball joint write up useful. Thanks for taking the time to post.
Comments: Hey I inquired about the knuckle seal a couple days ago. I couldnt reply to your post without a password? So I had to start a new post. Anyway, I also thought it was part of the seal, but the new seal does not have the metal flange on the back side. The new seals are factory Ford, so that's not the issue. The exploded view of the axle at the dealer calls it a bearing cap, but it looks to me like a dust cover for the seal or something. But as I said before, your pictures show you driving the old one off same as I did, and reinstalling the new one without the metal flange. Thanks for your input. If you don't mind, reply to my email.
Admin reply: Rob, I sent you an email. Do a new post and let me know if you do not receive it. I've been having a bit of trouble with my superdutypsd.com email.
Added: August 19, 2011
Submitted by Name: Rob Yoak From: KY E-mail: Contact
Comments: Hey there. I just read the article on replacing the ball joints in a super duty. I'll have to say, very very helpful and keep 'em comin! I have one question: when you remove the old knuckle seal, there's a metal flange that sets behind the seal that comes off with the seal. The problem is, I damaged mine beyond repair not knowing that I couldn't get new ones. The only way to get new ones are with a complete outer axle, which I don't need. However, I noticed in the picture of the new seal after installation, that the metal flange was not reinstalled. My question is, do I even need to put the flange back on, or is it OK without it. Any input is much appreciated. Thanks
Admin reply: Hi Rob, I think the flange you are referring to is part of the seal. That is, if we are talking about the same thing??
Added: August 18, 2011
Submitted by Name: Lonnie aka{SyN} From: Oklahoma E-mail: Contact
Comments: Hello again: Just finished the P/S Flush...After I added some brain cells, I figured this out... Took 20min...Very Easy and Clean... My 16yr old son helped me with brakes and steering wheel... Since I have been a life long Amsoil User.. as well as M1...I checked prices...Both are over $10qt...That's Crazy...Amsoil was even higher with shipping... I used 4qts to make sure total flush...Nice Ruby Red ATF was flowing at the end of the flush... 2qts Valvoline Mercon V & 2qts Valvoline MaxLife Merc/Dex... With a little extra room for 10oz of Lubegard ATF additive... P/S is like silk now--{Smooth and So Quiet}...
I just ordered the Magnefine 3/8 P/S filter will install up close to the hydroboost on the same line I had to remove... Will Change it out every 2yrs... and do the flush every 4yrs... From here on out... The main reason for doing this flush is I have plans on keeping my 7.3L for many many yrs too come... and If it helps prolong the life of my P/S unit... It was well worth the $25...
Thanks again!! Next flush I will pour in Synthetic ATF to help with those cold winter months...
Admin reply: Glad you got it done, Lonnie. I am like you, I intend to keep my 7.3 a good long time. I think if good maintenance is done, it is more than possible.
Added: August 3, 2011
Submitted by Name: Lonnie aka {SyN} From: Oklahoma E-mail: Contact
Comments: Hello again: I hate getting older... Memory is horrible...
Can you give me any incite on how often you change your magnefine filter on you P/S system? If you still own this truck...
Thanks Again Lonnie
Admin reply: I do still own the truck and change the filter every other year.
Comments: Hello: I have done routine maintenance on every fluid within my 01 7.3L except the power steering pump... Which I know after 286K miles needs it... The Pump still so far works very well... No Wine--Very Smooth...I have sucked some of the old ATF from the plastic res itself and replaced maybe 1/2qt... but never a total flush... Now here is my question---->
I attempted your awesome P/S flush method... Very Easy and Prompt...But my neighbor had my floor jack and he wasn't home...So No wheels off the ground...Now! This is where my patients runs out...LoL! After about 1hr of idling my 7.3L-{Which I hate to do}... I only had about 1/4 of a qt in my drain jug... Will the ATF flow out faster if I have the wheels raised and turning the wheels from corner to corner? I hope so this was ridiculous...
Not bashing your write up! It was awesome...And doing this flush I think is very critical if you have plans on keeping your truck for many yrs like I do...
How long did it take you to flush your system?
Also I will add the magnefine trans filter at the time of my next flush, which will be right after I hear back from you... After seeing all the black nasty residue within the res, this is a must do filter...
Thanks for all your knowledge and time to write all these for guys like us...
Lonnie aka {SyN}
Admin reply: Hello Lonnie,
Yes, you really need to raise the wheels and go clock to clock. The fluid barely moves if you do not. The whole process should only take ten or fifteen minutes.
Good luck.
Jerry
Added: August 3, 2011
Submitted by Name: Adam Klinger From: Suffolk, VA E-mail: Contact
Comments: I need some help. My front axle is spinning while I'm driving causing the passenger side only to leak. I replaced the dust seal on the axle, the seal behind the hub bearing and the hub bearins on both sides. the ball joints are good. I can not spin either side of the axles without using a screwdriver/prybar. While driving at low speeds the axle doesn't spin, it seems to only spin at higher speeds. When I pulled the axles to replace the seals the tubes were dry. The vacuum lines for the "Auto" hubs are disconnected and plugged. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Added: July 29, 2011
Submitted by Name: N Cook From: California bay area E-mail: Contact
Comments: Great site, just wish I could use it for the 6.0. I found your site looking for power steering fluid flushing tips and noticed that you have a Franz installed on your truck. My Father has been using Franz oil filters since 1963 on ALL of his vehicles. We were considering putting one on my 6.0, but need mounting ideas. Do you know anyone who has put one on a 6.0, and if so, where and which model, single or two stacker? Thanks
Added: July 21, 2011
Submitted by Name: Richard Smith From: Colorado E-mail: Contact
Comments: Great write ups, I had a son broke down on the interstate with a bad front wheel bearing on a wildland fire truck. I sent him some of your images on the disassembly of the front hub and he was able to replace the hub unit bearing and get going again with only a few hours of down time.
Admin reply: Richard, That's a cool story. Thanks for sharing. I'm glad your son was able to get going.
Name: Rod
From: Pa.
E-mail: Contact
thanks very much for the great info on ball joint replacement,very detailed, great photos and accurate info. This is the second time i did this job. this time i used Raybestos joints instead of Moog because i just installed the Moog joints about three years ago. I seldom haul heavy and only put about 30K miles on.I welcome any comments on what others have used.
Admin reply: Rod, too bad about your first set of moogs. 30K is pretty surprising. Hope your new set works out better. My current moogs have about 55k on them and are doing well. Thanks for taking the time to post.