FORD SUPER DUTY 7.3L POWERSTROKE DIESEL
Mods, Maintenance, Repair, and Information Home Page
Comments:
A very comprehensive site, full of good stuff!
It certainly deserves a BOLD bookmark in every 7.3 owner's browser, and it sure has one in mine!
I appreciate all the time you have put into this project, and your willingness to share. Just taking and formatting the photos HAD to take a bunch of time, not to mention the text.
If your site had "reps", you'd sure get them from me!
My heartfelt thanks for your work!
Pop
Admin reply: Pop,
Thanks so much for you post. I appreciate the kind words. Jerry
A very comprehensive site, full of good stuff!
It certainly deserves a BOLD bookmark in every 7.3 owner's browser, and it sure has one in mine!
I appreciate all the time you have put into this project, and your willingness to share. Just taking and formatting the photos HAD to take a bunch of time, not to mention the text.
If your site had "reps", you'd sure get them from me!
My heartfelt thanks for your work!
Pop
Admin reply: Pop,
Thanks so much for you post. I appreciate the kind words. Jerry
Added: March 19, 2011
Comments:
Just found your site as I was looking for torque values buttoning things up. I am so sorry I did not find your site at the begining of this project.
Great tutorial! And you are right about the time estimate. I could have saved hours on the first side had I read your site first. First side took about 8hrs. second side about 3 hrs.
Keep up the great job!
Kevin
Admin reply: Thanks for the comments, Kevin. Yes, that second side is so much easier.
Just found your site as I was looking for torque values buttoning things up. I am so sorry I did not find your site at the begining of this project.
Great tutorial! And you are right about the time estimate. I could have saved hours on the first side had I read your site first. First side took about 8hrs. second side about 3 hrs.
Keep up the great job!
Kevin
Admin reply: Thanks for the comments, Kevin. Yes, that second side is so much easier.
Added: February 22, 2011
Submitted by
Name: admin
Name: admin
Comments:
oops! I just realized that this guest book has been broken for about a month. I wondered why no one was posting.
It is now fixed. I welcome any comments!
oops! I just realized that this guest book has been broken for about a month. I wondered why no one was posting.
It is now fixed. I welcome any comments!
Added: February 7, 2011
Comments:
thank you for all of your hard work,and making all of this information available on your web site
Admin reply: You're welcome!
thank you for all of your hard work,and making all of this information available on your web site
Admin reply: You're welcome!
Added: December 29, 2010
Comments:
where did you get the westward snap ring pliers shown in the ball joint removal section? whats the model number? was working on a 2006 f350 and was trying to remove the inner snap ring and broke 2 pairs of snap ring pliers.why ford feels they need an 1/8 thick snap ring is beyond me.
Admin reply: I got the snap ring pliers from Grainger.
where did you get the westward snap ring pliers shown in the ball joint removal section? whats the model number? was working on a 2006 f350 and was trying to remove the inner snap ring and broke 2 pairs of snap ring pliers.why ford feels they need an 1/8 thick snap ring is beyond me.
Admin reply: I got the snap ring pliers from Grainger.
Added: December 24, 2010
Comments:
I have a 1999 F350 7.3. I bought this truck used to pull my horse and have been peforming preventative maintenance for longevity. I had a loud moaning sound coming from the engine that continued even after I replaced the drive belt, alternator, and oil service. I am so thankful to have stumbled upon this site as I read your power steering flush article and it was exactly my problem. Talkikng to local auto parts stores could not even tell me that I am supposed to use Mercon ATF for power steering fluid and NOT regular power steering fluid. I used your guide including pics and the fix was a substantial difference and sounds awesome.
Thank you again for your articles and personal experiences that others can use to extened their superduty's life. Bryan from AZ
Admin reply: Hello Bryan. Glad my power steering flush article helped. Thanks for taking the time to let me know.
I have a 1999 F350 7.3. I bought this truck used to pull my horse and have been peforming preventative maintenance for longevity. I had a loud moaning sound coming from the engine that continued even after I replaced the drive belt, alternator, and oil service. I am so thankful to have stumbled upon this site as I read your power steering flush article and it was exactly my problem. Talkikng to local auto parts stores could not even tell me that I am supposed to use Mercon ATF for power steering fluid and NOT regular power steering fluid. I used your guide including pics and the fix was a substantial difference and sounds awesome.
Thank you again for your articles and personal experiences that others can use to extened their superduty's life. Bryan from AZ
Admin reply: Hello Bryan. Glad my power steering flush article helped. Thanks for taking the time to let me know.
Added: December 19, 2010
Comments:
I have several thing s for you Ford friends.
1. I have the 7.3 Diesel and since i have owned it i have added 2 Quarts of Marvel Mystery Oil to every oil Change and it keeps the sut and ash build up out of your engine. When you start adding marvel it will take 2 to3 oil changes to flush out your engine, but then you will be good. My oil stays clean right up to my oil change at 4,000 miles.
2. When you change your water pump , I have a additive I add to the water to help lubricate and make it run cooler. I add Shaklee Basic H. it is a suffactant that makes water wetter. It has at this point made my Water pump last longer, and seems to run cooler. Prior I was loosing a water pump every couple of years.
3. Has anyone ever replaced the pitman arm on the steering gear box? I took mine down as I was told it was bad. When I took the bolts loose from the front stabilizer bar to gain access to the pitman retaining bolt I encountered a problem. The bolts under the gear box in the boxed frame area had rusted and when I tried to un bolt the stabilizer bracket they stripped. I ground the head off the bolt , but that left another problem in that the stud left inside the box frame will not come out. The hidden nuts are on a flexable strap that inserts from outside the frame. The only solution I have found is to take a cutting torch and blow the remaining stud and nut assembly apart , so I can install a new flex nut assembly and bolt back up. Any other solutions ? Please let me know. Thanks
I have several thing s for you Ford friends.
1. I have the 7.3 Diesel and since i have owned it i have added 2 Quarts of Marvel Mystery Oil to every oil Change and it keeps the sut and ash build up out of your engine. When you start adding marvel it will take 2 to3 oil changes to flush out your engine, but then you will be good. My oil stays clean right up to my oil change at 4,000 miles.
2. When you change your water pump , I have a additive I add to the water to help lubricate and make it run cooler. I add Shaklee Basic H. it is a suffactant that makes water wetter. It has at this point made my Water pump last longer, and seems to run cooler. Prior I was loosing a water pump every couple of years.
3. Has anyone ever replaced the pitman arm on the steering gear box? I took mine down as I was told it was bad. When I took the bolts loose from the front stabilizer bar to gain access to the pitman retaining bolt I encountered a problem. The bolts under the gear box in the boxed frame area had rusted and when I tried to un bolt the stabilizer bracket they stripped. I ground the head off the bolt , but that left another problem in that the stud left inside the box frame will not come out. The hidden nuts are on a flexable strap that inserts from outside the frame. The only solution I have found is to take a cutting torch and blow the remaining stud and nut assembly apart , so I can install a new flex nut assembly and bolt back up. Any other solutions ? Please let me know. Thanks
Added: November 20, 2010
Comments:
Enjoyed your pictures and instructions for the ball joint remove and install. Very helpful. Thank You
Enjoyed your pictures and instructions for the ball joint remove and install. Very helpful. Thank You
Added: November 20, 2010
Comments:
I appreciate you taking the time to do the write up and pics. Now that I don't turn wrenches for a living I actually really enjoy working on my stuff. I especially love planning things out and taking my time to clean things up.
Your write up told me what size sockets and what torque I was looking at without me having to search for things.
I went 330,000 miles of my stock ball joints!
I appreciate you taking the time to do the write up and pics. Now that I don't turn wrenches for a living I actually really enjoy working on my stuff. I especially love planning things out and taking my time to clean things up.
Your write up told me what size sockets and what torque I was looking at without me having to search for things.
I went 330,000 miles of my stock ball joints!
Added: November 19, 2010
Name: jc
From: Central Minnesota
E-mail: Contact
Nice Job on the ball joints. just fininhing side 2 but my quesion is how necessary and how difficult to replace the seal that is inside the hub. not sure if is bad but as long as i have this stinker torn down am wondering if they go bad, i have a 1999 with V-10 and 105k miles. Has the typical (so i am told) engine clatter (been doing this for the last 65,000 miles. in the old days i would have run the tappets but now you don't even want to try to change the plugs. O well. thanks for the fine job.
Admin reply: Thanks for the comments. My seals looked fine really, but I would still replace them. Too much work not to. Pretty easy to do if you have it all torn down. Regards